Basing your buildings

Basing your buildings

One of the frequently asked questions is how to base the terrain. You can base your terrain on a lot of different materials. In general, the common problem is warping. This is best prevented by choosing a basematerial which does not warp easily or by gluing several layers together. These are the pro's and con's of sample materials.

Thin cardboard
Pro: Can be cut with a pair of scissors. Readily available as junk/trash.

Con: Warps easily.

Thick cardboard
Pro: Can be cut with a knife. Stronger than thin cardboard and less likely to warp.

Con: Can warp.

Corrugated cardboard
Pro: Readily available as junk/trash. Can be cut with a knife or a pair of (strong) scissors.

Con: Can warp.

Tip: Layering 2 or more pieces of corrugated cardboard with the corrugations at 90 degrees angles will create a stronger base which is less likely to warp

Foamcore
Pro: Rarely warps. Can be cut with a knife.

Con: Expensive. Wears out knifeblades fast. Generally not available as junk/trash.

Foamboard/Styrofoam
Pro: Rarely warps. Thick styrofoam never warps. Available as junk/trash.

Con: Cuts best with a hot wire cutter. Some (spray) paints melt styrofoam.

Tip: Covering your styrofoam with a thin layer of (white) PVA glue (Elmers, School glue) will prevent paint from melting it.

Cork
Pro: Cut easily with a knife.

Con: Needs to be storebought. Not very strong, but is flexible and bendable.

Balsawood
Pro: Thin balsawood can be cut with a knife.

Con: Expensive. Not available as junk/trash. Not very strong and breaks rather easily. Thick balsawood requires a saw.

Plywood
Pro: Strong, durable. Plywood isn't prone to warping.

Con: Requires a saw. Must be storebought. Rather heavy.

Vince: Plywood is a great basing material BUT... It is usually sold in thicknesses unattractive to terrain-makers... AND... it's expensive. At least in my opinion. You also can't "Shape" it easily (like cutting wavy bases with foam or card).

MDF
Pro: Strong, durable.

Con: Requires a saw. Must be storebought. MDF can warp. Rather heavy.

Andrew: If you use minimum 8mm thick MDF and bevel the edges with some fine sandpaper then spray the whole thing with undercoat it last for as long as I've been able to tell.

Patton: Coat edges of MDF with glue to tone down flaying.

Matte board
Pro: Strong, durable.

Con: Rather heavy. Requires a saw. Must be storebought.

CD's
Pro: Does not warp

Con: Relatively small and round. Hard to cut without creating sharp edges.

Thin cardboard	Pro: Can be cut with a pair of scissors. Readily available as junk/trash. Con: Warps easily.
Thick cardboard	Pro: Can be cut with a knife. Stronger than thin cardboard and less likely to warp. Con: Can warp.
Corrugated cardboard	Pro: Readily available as junk/trash. Can be cut with a knife or a pair of (strong) scissors. Con: Can warp. Tip: Layering 2 or more pieces of corrugated cardboard with the corrugations at 90 degrees angles will create a stronger base which is less likely to warp
Foamcore	Pro: Rarely warps. Can be cut with a knife. Con: Expensive. Wears out knifeblades fast. Generally not available as junk/trash.
Foamboard/Styrofoam	Pro: Rarely warps. Thick styrofoam never warps. Available as junk/trash. Con: Cuts best with a hot wire cutter. Some (spray) paints melt styrofoam. Tip: Covering your styrofoam with a thin layer of (white) PVA glue (Elmers, School glue) will prevent paint from melting it.
Cork	Pro: Cut easily with a knife. Con: Needs to be storebought. Not very strong, but is flexible and bendable.
Balsawood	Pro: Thin balsawood can be cut with a knife. Con: Expensive. Not available as junk/trash. Not very strong and breaks rather easily. Thick balsawood requires a saw.
Plywood	Pro: Strong, durable. Plywood isn't prone to warping. Con: Requires a saw. Must be storebought. Rather heavy. Vince: Plywood is a great basing material BUT... It is usually sold in thicknesses unattractive to terrain-makers... AND... it's expensive. At least in my opinion. You also can't "Shape" it easily (like cutting wavy bases with foam or card).
MDF	Pro: Strong, durable. Con: Requires a saw. Must be storebought. MDF can warp. Rather heavy. Andrew: If you use minimum 8mm thick MDF and bevel the edges with some fine sandpaper then spray the whole thing with undercoat it last for as long as I've been able to tell. Patton: Coat edges of MDF with glue to tone down flaying.
Matte board	Pro: Strong, durable. Con: Rather heavy. Requires a saw. Must be storebought.
CD's	Pro: Does not warp Con: Relatively small and round. Hard to cut without creating sharp edges.